Today we confront Cambodia's traumatic recent history, beginning with a visit to Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum. This former high school was converted by the Khmer Rouge into Security Prison 21 (S-21), the regime's largest torture and interrogation centre. Between 1975 and 1979, approximately 20,000 people passed through Tuol Sleng — political prisoners, intellectuals, suspected dissidents, ethnic Vietnamese and Chinese, and eventually Khmer Rouge members accused of treachery. Prisoners were photographed upon arrival, interrogated under torture to produce false confessions, and then transported to execution sites. Only seven prisoners survived.
The buildings remain largely as they were found in January 1979 when Vietnamese forces liberated Phnom Penh. Classrooms became tiny cells or torture chambers, their transformation documented by photographs that line the walls — thousands of black and white images of prisoners, their faces showing fear, defiance, or resignation. The museum serves as both a memorial and a historical record, ensuring that the Khmer Rouge's crimes are not forgotten.
We continue to Choeung Ek, one of nearly 400 "Killing Fields" scattered across Cambodia where the Khmer Rouge executed prisoners. Located 17 kilometres (11 miles) from the city, Choeung Ek served as the primary execution ground for Tuol Sleng prisoners. Approximately 17,000 people were killed here. A tall stupa now houses over 5,000 skulls exhumed from mass graves. Walking paths lead past excavated pits and beneath trees that were used to execute children — the site's brutality is difficult to comprehend. An audio guide provides survivor testimony and explains the site's history.
Returning to Phnom Penh, we visit the National Museum, which houses one of the world's largest collections of Khmer art. The museum's collection includes over 14,000 objects spanning prehistoric times through the Angkorian period and beyond. Stone sculptures from Angkor and pre-Angkorian sites form the centrepiece — standing Buddhas, dancing apsaras, lingams, and architectural elements demonstrate the evolution of Khmer artistic styles over more than 1,000 years. The museum building itself, constructed between 1917 and 1924, takes design inspiration from Khmer temple architecture, with a central courtyard and terracotta-coloured walls.
We walk to the nearby Royal Palace, the official residence of Cambodia's king since the 1860s (though the current king resides elsewhere). While parts remain off-limits, we visit the Throne Hall and Silver Pagoda. The Silver Pagoda, named for its floor of 5,000 silver tiles, houses Cambodia's most sacred Buddha images, including an emerald Buddha and a life-sized gold Buddha encrusted with diamonds. The pagoda's walls display frescoes depicting the Reamker, the Cambodian version of the Hindu Ramayana epic.
We conclude at Wat Phnom, the temple-topped hill that gives the city its name. Built in 1372 and rebuilt several times since, the temple remains an active place of worship. From the hilltop, views extend across Phnom Penh's distinctive mix of colonial buildings, modern construction, and traditional wooden houses.
Overnight in Phnom Penh.
 
Included Meal(s): Breakfast and Dinner