Early this morning we visit the Mogao Caves — and here, at the far western edge of our journey, the Silk Road's deepest story reaches its most extraordinary expression.
The caves were begun in AD 366 when a monk named Le Zun had a vision of a thousand Buddhas shimmering in the cliff face above the Dachuan River. Over the next thousand years, successive dynasties of merchants, monks, and pilgrims funded the excavation and decoration of cave after cave, filling them with murals and sculptures that document Buddhist cosmology, Chinese court life, Central Asian musical traditions, and the daily reality of Silk Road travel. The result is the greatest repository of Buddhist art on earth: 492 decorated caves, 45,000 square metres of murals, more than 2,000 painted sculptures. The thread that led us here from Xi'an's Great Mosque, from Kashgar's Id Kah, from Turpan's Persian-styled minaret, finds its resolution in these painted caves: the Silk Road was always, underneath the commerce, a corridor of belief.
This afternoon we drive to the edge of the oasis where Mingsha Shan — the Singing Sand Mountain — rises abruptly from the desert floor. Nestled at the dune base is Yueyaquan, the spring-fed Crescent Lake, whose survival amid the surrounding desert has been considered miraculous for two thousand years. Camel rides into the dunes are available for those who wish to experience something of the Silk Road's original mode of transport.
This evening the Shazhou Night Market draws us in — the liveliest gathering in the northwest, its stalls selling dried fruits, jade, silk, and Uyghur flatbreads as the temperature drops and the stars appear with the particular clarity reserved for desert skies.
Overnight in Dunhuang.
 
Included Meal(s): Breakfast and Dinner