The coach departs this morning on a two-hour journey northwest, following the Moselle toward its source as the valley narrows and the landscape shifts toward the rolling, wooded terrain of the Grand Duchy. Luxembourg is easy to underestimate. A country of 2,600 square kilometres and fewer than 700,000 people — smaller than many English counties — it has nonetheless been successfully independent for over a thousand years, hosts the headquarters of the European Court of Justice and the European Investment Bank, and is, on a per-capita basis, one of the wealthiest nations on earth. The geography explains everything: the Alzette and Pétrusse rivers have carved such deep gorges into the plateau that Luxembourg City's old town sits atop a natural fortress that no army managed to conquer for most of its history. Geography, it turns out, is a form of policy.
Arriving late morning, the afternoon is spent unlocking the city's layers with a local guide. The upper town — the Place d'Armes, the Place Guillaume II, the Grand Ducal Palace — gives way to the Chemin de la Corniche, a promenade along the cliff edge with the most dramatic views in the city: the deep gorge falling away below, the lower town of Grund far beneath, the old walls and towers framing a UNESCO World Heritage skyline. Descending to Grund by the Pétrusse Express train or the public elevators, we encounter a completely different Luxembourg — intimate, residential, the café terraces occupying the same valley floor that the fortifications above once defended.
The Bock Casemates complete the picture: 17 kilometres of underground galleries tunnelled into the cliff, once housing 35,000 soldiers, today one of Europe's most unusual self-guided experiences. The rock that saved Luxembourg is also what you walk through.
Overnight in Luxembourg City.
 
Included Meal(s): Breakfast and Dinner